![]() That’s pretty much the worst-case scenario for a make-or-break prototype. I really couldn’t say for sure whether this was going to work. ![]() The back digits where hard to read, there was a lot of inter-digit light bleed. So I spent one of my Wednesday nights making a prototype stack. If it failed, I could pull the plug on the owl idea before they got out of the paper prototype stage. I figured if I just spent one evening laser-etching a digit stack and holding it over an LED, I could figure out if the displays were going to be an unreadable mess. I can’t really start a Christmas Project until after the Halloween Costume builds are done, but this project couldn’t really take shape until I’d at least tested the viability of the Plexitube. Would this be this year’s Christmas Project? I really liked the design, and I thought it would be perfect for an owl-shaped clock with Plexitube eyes. I used my Swiss army knife to cut my co-workers’ name tags into owl prototypes. To pass the time, I started to do some sketches of an owl made from only two pieces of wood. Then I went to work at a new company, and I had to spend an entire day listening to benefits summaries and corporate on-boarding. Thanks a lot guys!Īt the time it was unclear if light bleed between the layers would make the digits hard to read, so I sat on the Plexitube idea for a long time waiting for a project that could use that kind of display. The project has even gotten some attention from Hackaday and won this Reddit unconventional clock competition. I even made a short video of one of the clocks in action. I’ve put the software, circuit designs, and illustrator files up on github. I’m pleased with the way the project turned out. ![]() Long ago I’d realized that a stack of 10 laser-etched digits with an LED to light up each digit might have the same visual charm as a Nixie Tube, and the Plexitube was born. The basic idea is that you position an LED at the edge of a piece of acrylic that has a pattern laser-etched into its surface, and the LED lights up the pattern. Nixie tubes are wonderful with their glass tube bodies and brightly glowing numerals, but think how wonderful a solid-state low-power any color “Nixie Tube” would be! The following wiring diagram shows wiring up the rotary encoder to the ItsyBitsy to match the code example.For Christmas I designed and built six steam-punk owl clocks that have a novel faux Nixie Tube display. ![]() We’re going to be using both the rotary encoder and the push button switch for this guide. oriented so the three pins are facing you. The rotary encoder pins are A, C (common ground), and B, in that order when the rotary encoder is upright, i.e. Three are for the rotary encoder and two are for the button switch. The pictorial comparison is given below.Īrduino rotary encoder wiring is the most important of this, therefore we have shown below rotary encoder pinout wiring clearly to easily understand wiring: However, when the rotary encoder is mounted on the breakout board, all five pins are available on the same side. With a total of 5 pins, 3 on one side for rotary encoding which needs a simple circuit to supply DC 5V while the other two go short whenever pressed, you’re not short of any functionality when using this. The two (1 & 2) pins are actually pushed buttons where 1 is grounded and 2 acts as a switch while on the encoder side the corner pins (3 & 5) are connected to the Arduino board whereas the middle pin of the encoder is grounded. The rotary encoder has 5 pins three of them are on the encoder side while two are on the click button side.
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